During the late 1960s and early 1970s, quartz timepieces nearly drove mechanical watches out of existence. While initially priced to compete with mechanical timepieces, they gradually became less expensive and easier to mass make. They were also far more trustworthy, durable, and precise than mechanical watches, which was important to most customers at the time because timepieces still had the primary purpose of telling the time.
When opposed to mechanical watches, quartz watches only had one practical disadvantage: the battery had to be replaced. Early quartz watches were inefficient, frequently requiring a battery replacement every six months, which was inconvenient when a mechanical watch could easily run a few years without care.
In addition to the regular battery replacements, early and high-end quartz movements were designed to be maintainable. That meant that, while quartz watches were more sturdy, reliable, and accurate, they required more regular excursions to the local watchmaker.
Seiko attempted to find a solution. What if a quartz watch came with a non-replaceable battery? What if the watch still needed to be serviced? While solar-powered watches released in the 1970s provided a reasonably worry-free wearing experience, the power cell required replacement every ten years. Seiko sought to create a watch with serviceable parts rather than replaceable ones.
THE HISTORY SEIKO KINETIC WATCHES
Seiko began designing movements that could be wound like a traditional mechanical watch but used electricity, offering the reliability and precision of quartz watches, with the purpose of decreasing the environmental effect of mass-produced quartz watches. In 1983, Seiko began developing a quartz mechanism that would not require a traditional battery.
The SBAD001 and SBAD003 were the first commercially available versions of these watches. These watches were the first of their sort when they were released in late 1986. The 8T23 movement, which hand-wound the generator for the capacitor, was housed within these.
These two references, in addition to telling the time, had day and date displays, as well as a full-charge indication light at six o’clock. The movement had 72 hours of power reserve when fully charged; however, it took three minutes of constant winding to obtain full charge.
Because of the comparatively low battery life in comparison to the amount of winding required, this watch was a commercial flop, and Seiko discontinued it after only one year.
In January 1988, Seiko introduced the first “AGS” quartz watch (AGS stands for “Automatic Generating System”). Instead of being wound by hand, the generator was powered by a rotor similar to those used on automatic mechanical timepieces.
These timepieces were vastly superior to the manually wound calibre. Seiko was successful in developing a more environmentally conscious quartz-regulated movement, earning Germany’s Blue Angel Mark for sustainable products.
Seiko renamed its “AGS” series “Kinetic” in 1997. Seiko also introduced a number of styles and complexity, such as the first AGS diver in 1992, the AGS “Flightmaster,” which contained a GMT, and the first Kinetic chronograph in 2000.
Seiko launched the pause feature in 1999, which would internally track the time while halting the hands when not in use to conserve battery life. When the watch was worn again, the movement would bring the hands up to date. Many Kinetic watches include display casebacks that allow the owner to see the movement and the rotor that powers the movement.
Seiko appears to have began to phase out the Kinetic line as of 2021, with no new models being introduced and limited availability. This is just supposition, but it is likely due to advances in solar technology, as well as the development of higher-end quartz calibres that are more serviceable than those made in the 1970s and 1980s.
HOW SEIKO KINETIC WATCHES WORK
Seiko’s Kinetic movements are somewhat unique in that they are “wound” like mechanical watches. The rotation of the crown or the movement rotor when “winding” the watch turns a small electrical generator that charges a capacitor.
The movement is then powered by the capacitor, and it functions just like any other quartz movement. Battery replacements are no longer required because the capacitor may be recharged.
While the initial watch with this technology was hand-wound, Seiko eventually launched a movement that was simply automatic winding and then one that was both manual and automatic winding. The automated rotor rotates a gear train, increasing the rotor’s spinning speed by one hundred, providing a current that charges the capacitor, which powers the circuits for the analogue time display.
While the original watches to utilise this technology could only last a few days, technology has advanced to the point where modern Seiko Kinetic watches can last up to six months on a single charge.
They, too, began as simple movements that just displayed the time, day, and date before progressing to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and GMT movements. The brand, like the rest of Seiko’s catalogue, issued a plethora of styles ranging from fairly dressy and formal to athletic and avant-garde.
OTHER SEIKO COLLECTIONS
While there has been occasional crossover between Seiko Kinetic watches and other lines, there are now no Kinetic-powered timepieces in the catalogue. Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, and Astron are currently part of the main Seiko line-up.
Seiko’s entry-level options are shown in the Seiko 5. Water resistance, an automatic movement, a day and date function, a recessed crown at four o’clock, and a casing and crown engineered for longevity are the five features of this watch.
While some watches have deviated from the four o’clock crown and day and date function, timepieces in this line continue to provide excellent value for beginner collectors or those searching for an inexpensive piece to add to their collection.
The Prospex collection focuses on watches designed specifically for sporting activity. The diving watches in the collection are the most well-known, ranging from low-cost quartz models to high-end Spring Drive powered pieces; they are all designed to survive the rigours of underwater excursions. There are also automatic and quartz chronographs, as well as GMT variants.
Seiko’s Presage range is a more formal, “go-anywhere-do-anything” model. These models, which nevertheless offer a variety of complications such as GMTs, chronographs, power reserve indicators, and simple time and date models, are excellent choices whether you require something more dressy or simply want a more simple and adaptable timepiece.
Seiko’s quartz technology is really being pushed in the Seiko Astron series. This collection’s models are radio/satellite operated, which means they receive an input signal to synchronise the time, providing precise time telling. Perpetual calendars, global time features, chronographs, and alarms are some of the models available.
While initially very huge, Seiko has worked hard in recent years to make them more wearable, making them suitable for global travellers or watch lovers interested in cutting-edge time-telling technology. Furthermore, if you are obsessed with precision, these watches are worth considering.
10 SEIKO KINETIC WATCHES TO KNOW
While not exhaustive, the watches listed below are highlights from Seiko’s Kinetic powered watches.
SEIKO KINETIC DIVE WATCH SKA371
Seiko’s 5M62 kinetic-powered quartz movement powers this black-dialed dive watch. It has a 6-month power reserve and a pusher at 2 o’clock for checking the power reserve. The watch also has a date display at 3 o’clock, is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, has 6 jewels, and is 4.3mm thick.
The SKA371’s stainless steel case is 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lug width. The dial is protected by a Hardlex crystal, and the black unidirectional bezel includes a lume pip at 12 o’clock.
The watch is accompanied by a stainless steel bracelet. The SKA371 is no longer available, however the last reported list price was 550 USD. Models are still available on the secondary market.
SEIKO KINETIC PERPETUAL PREMIER SNP161
The Premier range from Seiko includes dramatic case styles that create a bold statement while remaining dressy in appearance. With Kinetic movement technology, the SNP161 combines a perpetual calendar and a big date display. The stainless steel case is 43mm wide, 12mm thick, 48.4mm lug-to-lug, and features a steel bracelet that is 22mm broad.
The 7D56 Kinetic movement is housed inside, with a rated accuracy of +/-15 seconds per month, 16 jewels, and a thickness of 6.1mm. There is a power save function that disables the hands after 24 hours of inactivity. The blue dial is embellished with textured patterns, sword hands, and baton markings. The most recent selling price was 950 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC RECRAFT SKA705
The Seiko Recraft collection focuses on a casual retro-inspired design inspired by Seiko’s past. The SKA705 has a 42mm wide, 12mm thick, and 22mm lugs black ion-plated stainless steel casing. The watch includes a nylon pass-through strap. The case is water resistant to 100 metres.
The black dial has yellow highlights and white lume on the hands and indices. A Hardlex mineral crystal protects the dial. The Seiko 5M82 calibre is within, with a date at 4:30. This movement has a 6-month power reserve and offers the same power reserve feature by pushing the pusher at 2 o’clock. The Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705’s most recent retail price was 325 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC PREMIER PERPETUAL NOVAK DJOKOVIC SPECIAL EDITION SNP149P2
Produced as a limited edition for Seiko ambassador and tennis player Novak Djokovic. The SNP149P2 has the same case design and movement as the SNP161. It has a black dial with striped dial decoration, alternating rose gold batons with Roman numerals, and rose gold hands and subdials.
The rose gold-plated crown connects the dial parts to the outside casing. The watch is fitted with a 22mm alligator-patterned leather strap and a deployant buckle. The Seiko SNP149P2’s most recent retail price was 800 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC VELATURA DIRECT DRIVE SRH013
Seiko’s Velatura line was designed to be a sailing-themed collection. Their water fairing objectives were evident, as they boasted water resistance and sports designs. The SRH013 has a 43mm wide and 13mm thick black IP-coated stainless steel case. A black dial with yellow accents sits under the sapphire crystal.
The day of the week is displayed on the subdial at 4:30, with a power reserve at 9 o’clock and the date at 6 o’clock. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres and comes with a rubber band, which complements the water sport-oriented design. The Seiko 5D44 calibre is housed therein. The most recent retail price was 1395 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC COUTURA RETROGRADE SRN066
Coutura is a line of sporty designs with integrated straps and bracelets. This series of timepieces is intended to be elegant yet bold, capable of daily wear while fitting into a range of contexts.
The SRN066 sports a rose gold plated bezel and a 43mm black ion-plated stainless steel case and band. The case is 12.1mm thick. A Hardlex mineral crystal protects the black dial with rose gold hands and indexes.
The Seiko Calibre 5M84 movement is visible via the display caseback. There is a retrograde day display between four and six o’clock, as well as a 6-month power reserve, in addition to the time and date. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres, making it appropriate for water activities.
While the Coutura series is still available on Seiko’s websites, the Kinetic movement-equipped versions appear to have been discontinued, with the emphasis shifting to solar-powered movements. The SRN066’s most recent retail price was 495 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC PREMIER MOONPHASE SRX015
The SRX015 is another sophisticated watch from the Premier collection that has a moonphase function. The calibre 5D88 tells the time, has a date subdial at three o’clock, a 24-hour indicator and day subdial at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the one-month power reserve at nine o’clock. The hour markers on the silver-textured dial alternate between Roman numerals and stick indices.
The steel case is 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, and comes with a 22mm wide steel bracelet. It will be more than capable of daily wear and water sports thanks to its sapphire crystal and 100 metres of water resistance. The retail price was 1195 USD when it was last available.
SEIKO KINETIC PROSPEX GMT SUN065
The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 has the same casing and movement as the SUN023 that was previously discussed in this article. Instead of a black case and bright colours on the dial, the SUN065 is a PADI special edition that sticks to the organization’s blue and red colour pattern.
The Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) was created in 1966 by John Cornin and Ralph Erickson. It is an organisation committed to diver education and training, ranging from introductory classes to specialised skills and certifications. By 2022, their work had resulted in 29 million certifications.
The stainless steel case of the Seiko Prospex SUN065 is 47.5mm wide and boasts brushed and polished surfaces, as well as a blue bezel inlay. The blue dial features silver indices with lume and red accents that match the 24-hour hand. The pusher at 2 o’clock is coated and coloured blue, connecting the bezel, dial, and case. The last stated MSRP for the Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 was 750 USD.
SEIKO KINETIC SPORTURA SUN015
The Seiko Sportura was inspired by the automotive sector in its design, resulting in clocks that were both streamlined and futuristic in appearance.
The SUN015 is a more restrained, yet nonetheless striking, version of the series. It has a lot of presence on the wrist, measuring 45mm wide, 13mm thick, 51mm lug-to-lug, and coming on a 21mm broad steel bracelet. The 5M85 movement included in the other GMT watches listed provides the date and second time zone in addition to the time.
The casing is water resistant to 100 metres and has a screw-down crown, while the black dial with lumed hands and indices is protected by a sapphire crystal. The black ceramic bezel adds another scratch-resistant element to the front of the watch. The SUN015 retailed for 750 USD when it was first introduced.
SEIKO KINETIC SMY139
The SMY139 is another lower-priced Seiko product with a more utilitarian appearance. The military inspiration is evident, with a black ion-plated 41mm broad case with 20mm bracelet, and a black dial with huge lumed indexes and 12, 6, and 9 numerals.
The sturdy exterior is slimline enough to stay out of harm’s way while yet managing some hard scenarios, measuring 11mm thick, rated to 100 metres of water resistance, and equipped with a Hardlex crystal.
The 5M83 calibre is within, which is the same as the 5M82 but with both the day and date displayed. When it was first released, the Seiko Kinetic SMY139 cost 380 USD.
CONCLUSION
Seiko’s pursuit of precision, dependability, and sustainability led to the development of the AGS system, which was eventually called Kinetic. These movements gave quartz precision, durability, and convenience while minimising dependency on disposable batteries and the convenience of an automatic movement, which meant that the wearer’s movement would produce power for the watch.
With the advancement of solar technology, the Kinetic movements have been phased out of Seiko’s current collection. Adding a Seiko Kinetic or two to a collection of collectors interested in other types of movement technology can provide some variation and fascination to the more prevalent battery-powered and mechanical spring-driven movements.