It is widely acknowledged that Rolex reigns supreme in Haute Horology. Even complete watch beginners are aware that the company has been producing timepieces worthy of a bucket list since 1905.
The claim that the Submariner collection is the most well-known in the world, surpassing all others in importance and stature, is not an idealistic assumption.
The Submariner has adorned the wrists of history makers, from renowned oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing one in the movie “Le Monde du silence” to James Bond parading the Submariner as the ultimate iconic timepiece.
One of the best watches in the world is a Submariner, but not all Subs are created equal, which is where this article comes in. The Kermit and Starbucks models are two of the most acclaimed and contentious Submariners from the previous century, revered by followers of the Submariner and pretentious watch collectors.
But why are these models the subject of such intense debate, and how do they compare to one another? Which one is the greatest choice for you, and are there any noticeable differences between them? Let’s investigate!
ABOUT THE ROLEX KERMIT
In 1954, Baselworld served as the formal launch for the first Submariner models. The first diving watch with a 100-meter water resistance was the Ref. 6204. From the start, it was obvious that Rolex had big intentions for the Submariner, one of which was to become known as one of the greatest sports watches in history.
In 2003, the lauded Rolex Submariner series celebrated its 50th anniversary by introducing the Rolex Kermit. The initial model had a black dial and a green aluminium bezel and was designated 16610LV. The watch instantly drew mixed reviews from Rolex’s fan base due to the unconventional colour choice.
The debut of the first Sub to include a green bezel caught the watch industry by surprise. The unusual release went by many titles, but “Kermit” was the one that caught on.
Due to the striking resemblance in colour between the Submariner’s bezel and the well-known green frog, collectors like to refer to the 16610LV as the “Kermit.” The reference number’s initials “LV” stand for “lunette verte,” which is French for “green bezel.”
The 166170LV is packaged in a slim 40mm case with a 13mm thickness. A “maxi-dial” dial has larger-than-average markings and hands to improve sight and provide more lumen for reading the time at night. The watch employs the Calibre 3135, has a 300-meter water resistance certification, and is attached to a hollow link Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel.
After seven years, production was stopped to make room for the new green Sub via the 116610LV “Hulk.” The Kermit, a legendary diver and fantastic investment and family heritage, continues to be the pinnacle of success and distinction.
The anniversary piece has become increasingly in demand since it was discontinued, and collectors and aficionados prize it highly.
ABOUT THE ROLEX STARBUCKS
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV “Starbucks” was one of four new models introduced in September 2020 to the world’s most renowned diving watch collection.
When the Submariner was first created, it was the ideal tool for divers, and the difficult tests it triumphantly passed led to its fixation as Rolex’s flagship model. Even though the line has changed since 1953, the fundamental idea and design guidelines have not.
The Rolex Kermit and the Rolex Hulk are two more notable green-themed Submariners that the Ref. 126610LV has joined. Due to its black dial and green bezel, which reminded people of the recognisable green Starbucks coffee chain logo, it was given the moniker “Starbucks.”
Although the Starbucks design appears to depart from Rolex’s generally traditional brand attitude, it adheres to the original design introduced in 1953. It has a more vintage appearance and notable classic proportions like slimmer horns. It is 1mm larger than its predecessor, the Ref. 116610LV (also known as the Hulk), and has a larger size.
Being the first Sub to have a Calibre 3235 is another distinctive quality of the Starbucks. The Rolex Chronergy escapement, which has 15% more efficiency, is part of the Calibre 3235. Starbucks makes sure that Rolex’s cultural significance keeps expanding by enhancing the brand’s symbolism even now.
Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is a heightened symbol of ambition for the Everyman around the world, whether it’s your first investment or a wonderful addition to your collection. Professional divers will also find it to be of great use because it was constructed to the highest standards of design and functionality.
ROLEX KERMIT VS STARBUCKS
The green diver’s watch made its debut with the Rolex Kermit in 2003 to commemorate the Submariner collection’s 50th birthday. On the other side, Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is the third generation. Due to Rolex’s simultaneous total revamping of the Submariner line, the release of the Starbucks was highly noteworthy.
The watch was upgraded in size, bezel material, and movement, and still had a green bezel, but it had something “extra” about it. Since it comes in the same colours as the original Kermit and has essentially identical features, collectors have disagreed about whether it should be called “Kermit 2.0” or “Cermit.”
What distinguishes these two icons from one another? Is the fabled Kermit Sub still available under the Starbucks brand? Continue reading to learn more about these two treasures’ variations.
APPEARANCE
CASE
The Submariner’s diameter has been 40mm for many years. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV followed suit and had a 904L stainless steel case (also known as Oyster Steel) with the same 40mm diameter and 20mm lug width as its forerunners.
Contrarily, the Starbucks 126610LV’s case has grown by 1mm and now has more tapered lugs that look slimmer and more slanted. While the height of both watches stays essentially the same at 12.5mm, the lug width has increased from 20mm to 21mm.
When you learn that even the crown guards have been revised and are now more angled and symmetrical, giving the watch more flow, more curves, and less mass, you’ll see that the Starbucks Sub is somewhat more aesthetically pleasing.
A Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, and screwed case back are included in both cases, which also include brushed surfaces and polished sides. However, the Kermit 16610LV does not have an anti-reflective coating on the inside side of its sapphire crystal like the Starbucks 126610LV does.
Again, the design, execution, and finishing of both watches are on par with all Rolex models. They are both water resistant up to 1,000 feet or 300 metres.
THE DIAL & BEZEL
A traditional unidirectional diving bezel with legible indications and a 60-click action frames the dial of both watches. The Kermit 16610LV, however, has a green aluminium bezel insert, and the Starbucks 126610LV has a stainless steel bezel with a knurled edge and a Cerachrom inlay.
Rolex creates Cerachrom from a very scratch-resistant ceramic material that is exceptionally durable. UV rays have no effect on it. As a result, compared to the Kermit 16610LV, the green colour appears a little more subdued and has less contrast.
The Kermit’s aluminium bezel is coloured more like the character for whom it is named, a racing green. There aren’t many distinguishing features amongst the dials. The Maxi-Dial arrangement is still the same, with big markers that are mostly filled with Chromalight that emits blue light. The hands, however, appear to have undergone a minor revision.
Unlike the 16610LV, the minute hand now has a broader luminous insert and touches the minute track. The additional 1mm gives the dial a slightly larger appearance and makes the Mercedes hour hand appear wider.
Finally, the Kermit lacks the little crown that the Starbucks has between the “Swiss Made” words at 6 o’clock.
BRACELET & CLASP
More than any other watch company in the world, Rolex is adept at sticking to tried-and-true methods. Nevertheless, both timepieces are sported on the standard Rolex Oyster bracelet. The flawlessly integrated 3-link bracelet is polished on the sides and thoroughly brushed on its flat surfaces.
The Starbucks’s entire contour, from lugs to clasp, has been altered because the lug width has increased by 1mm (to 21mm). The larger clasp, which is also one more millimetre in comparison to the Kermit, does not appear as attractive as the small clasp on the Kermit, but the larger bracelet visually decreases the increase in case size.
The Starbucks bracelet, in contrast to the Kermit, doesn’t feel overly tapered at the buckle, which is typical of vintage Rolex Submariners.
MOVEMENTS
The primary distinction between Kermit and Starbucks is mechanical rather than aesthetic. The dependable Calibre 3135, an automated movement that was first presented in 1988, powers the Kermit 16610LV. Prior to 2015, the workhorse movement was the primary movement used in most Rolex date models.
It has 31 jewels, a bidirectional rotor, and is certified by COSC as a Superlative Chronometer. Additionally, it has a Parachrom hairspring and a glucydur balancing wheel for improved shock and temperature resistance. The Calibre 3135 has a frequency of 28.800 vph and shows the date, hours, and minutes in the centre of the dial at 3 o’clock.
On the other hand, the Rolex Calibre 3235, also known as the watchmaker’s dream, powers the Starbucks 126610LV. With a staggering 14 patents, the movement was formally unveiled at Baselworld 2015 and is at the cutting edge of watchmaking technology.
In comparison to the Calibre 3135, which it replaces, the COSC-certified has a longer power reserve: 70 hours as opposed to 48 hours (a almost 50% increase). The Calibre 3235’s main goal is to provide notable advancements in terms of accuracy, dependability, shock resistance, and magnetic field resistance.
The accuracy of the Calibre 3235 is in the range of -2/+2 seconds every day, whereas that of the Kermit’s Calibre 3135 is between -4 and +6 seconds per day. This grade is more than twice as accurate as what is expected for official chronometers.
The Calibre 3235 still uses the Rolex-patented blue Parachrom hairspring, but it has been revised and improved, making it 10 times more accurate in the event of shocks than conventional hairsprings.
PRICE & AVAILABILITY
The Kermit retailed for roughly $5,000 at the time of debut. However, as production halted in 2010, the only option if you want to own the Kermit ref. 16610LV is the used car market.
Even while the price of the Submariner Kermit didn’t immediately increase once it was discontinued, over time, its enduring appeal in the collector’s market led to its appreciation. In the used online market, prices for a pre-owned Submariner Kermit 16610LV in good condition start at around $15,500.
The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, is only sold through authorised shops and has been adorning their shelves since 2020. I mention this because you cannot directly purchase a Rolex watch through the company’s website. A list of their authorised jewellers is available where you can (and should) buy a Rolex with the assurance of its authenticity.
A new Starbucks 126610LV typically costs $18,495 and comes with a five-year genuine Rolex international guarantee.
VALUE RETENTION & INVESTMENT
Every watch enthusiast is aware that Rolex watches maintain their value better than the majority of high-end luxury watch brands. Since Rolex isn’t making any new models, the Kermit, which was produced between 2003 and 2010, has seen an increase in resale value on the secondary market.
The absolutely collectible watch is in high demand on the grey market, where it can be seen on marketplaces going for up to $23,000 (more than four times its original price). Given the watch’s limited supply and the fact that its popularity has skyrocketed, there may be a profitable investment opportunity here.
If you keep the original box, papers, and accessories intact and guard it against needless wear and tear, the Starbucks will likewise maintain its worth for a very long time. The green anniversary watch has more resale value and is a superior investment because of its relative scarcity if we compare the value retention of the Kermit and Starbucks.
Rare and difficult-to-find timepieces consistently draw the biggest bids at the auction, but if Rolex decides to stop making the Starbucks at any point, its price on the secondary market will soar.
CONCLUSION
Although the quality, execution, construction, and finishing of the Kermit and Starbucks are comparable, the Kermit will always be the famous 50th anniversary model. Although the Starbucks’ minor adjustments do make a significant difference, the Kermit’s enchantment has given it cult status, and it continues to be the more popular watch.
Nevertheless, it will be remembered as the first legendary green Sub and will always be in high demand among collectors.