Rolex Submariner VS Rolex Sea-Dweller

Rolex is undisputedly the king of high-end sports watches; its dive watch collection is incredibly significant, historically significant, and important. The Submariner is the classic dive watch, using the oyster case that has been key to its sports watch reputation and water resistance.

The Submariner is the champion of Rolex’s deep-sea explorations. It was one of the first watches designed specifically for diving and has been improved upon throughout the years.

Since its introduction 70 years ago, the Submariner has been an undisputed icon thanks to Rolex’s enormous marketing success, capitalization of growth, industry-leading evolution of its collection, originality, and strong brand value.

The Sea-Dweller in its numerous guises, essentially a hard-core variant of the Submariner, is a crucial companion and participant in the enormous success of its diving watch history. This occasionally sparks a discussion regarding which is preferable.

ABOUT THE ROLEX SUBMARINER

The Submariner was created in 1953, and the following year it made its formal appearance. It was one of the first instances of a contemporary dive watch, but it was a few months behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms when it came to commercial success. The 6204 was the first Submariner reference and the first timepiece to dive to a record-breaking 100 metres.

Over the course of its 70-year existence, the Submariner underwent an evolutionary development route and underwent numerous modifications with small changes that make it one of the most sought-after watches of the present day.

The reference 6200, the first “Big Crown” Submariner and the first to offer 200m of water resistance, came out in 1955 after the reference 6205 debuted its corresponding Mercedes hour hand in 1954. The Submariner gained celebrity status early in its existence because to the launch of 6538 in 1956, which was made famous by being worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No (1962). This had a significant impact on the Submariner’s popularity.

A/6538, with fixed spring bars and a wider bezel made of German Silver for easy grasping and a tendency to dent rather than break, was the first military-issued Submariner to arrive in 1957. The 5513, the double-stamped 5513/5517, and the 5517 would come after this in the 1970s. These were created in accordance with MOD guidelines and were modelled after the MOD Seamaster, but with modern additions including sword hands, crown guards, and a fully graded bezel.

The 5512 was the first commercial model to have crown guards in 1959, and the reference 1680, which had the recognisable cyclops, gave the Submariner a date feature in 1967. With a date or no date option for purists who favoured the symmetrical dial, this divided the range into two. Additionally, just like today, the date watches would be made available in precious metals.

The 5513, which replaced the 5512 and has the longest manufacturing run to date, was produced from 1962 until 1990. During this time, various improvements were made to the Submariner, including swapping the gilded gloss display with a metres first matte dial, non-serif lettering, and larger indexes known as Maxi-dials.

The “Date Models,” the 1680 and the 16800 (1977–1987), and the 5513 would be on the same timeline. The latter would have a sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown, making it the first Submariner waterproof to 300m—a measurement that is still used in the contemporary line today.

The first two-tone reference in 1984, which was offered in either a vivid blue or black colour, would be the watch that helped make the 1980s a very successful and enduring decade for two-tone watches. A new model would also be introduced to the steel or full gold choices.

The 168000 would expose us to Rolex’s currently exclusive 904L-Steel, and the 16610 (1987–2010), which is regarded as the first modern Submariner with premium white gold surround indexes and a contemporary movement, the COSC–Certified 3135, would come next. Between 1990 to 2002, the “No-date” 14060 Submariner shared this modernism. The 14060M, the final Submariner with drilled lugs, would come out between 2002 and 2010 and was certified as a chronometer in 2007 using the 3130 movement.

The “Kermit” Submariner 16610LV was initially presented in 2003 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, replacing the black aluminium bezel of the 16610LN with a green one. The first luxury watch company of its sort to successfully use a daring colour, and a suitable colour to mark its anniversary.

In 2008, to commemorate its 100th anniversary, Rolex paved the way for a more modern, opulent, and unbreakable Submariner, the “Smurf” 116619LB, which impressed with a number of updates like a maxi case, more robust and high-end ceramic bezel insert with gold/platinum markers, solid link bracelet, and new generation Glidelock extension equipped clasp that set a new standard for wearability.

Finally updated in 2010, the remaining Submariner models included the 116610LN Black Date and 114060LN. No models with a date, combo, or entire yellow gold. A green sunburst dial and the moniker “Hulk” were added to the LV version of the 116610, which went on to become one of the most sought-after contemporary references.

The Submariner is a design classic that was highly engineered, stylish, practical, and ageless. Through its timeline, which has changed to meet the demands of its wearers, collectors, and those who narrate its legacy, it became the model for all dive watches that were to come. As a result, it represents the pinnacle of a professional dive watch.

For virtually every aficionado of luxury sports watches, its supreme status and adaptability have made it the most coveted and tested luxury sports watch in the modern period.

ABOUT THE ROLEX SEA-DWELLER

In 1953, history was created when an experimental Deep Sea Special attached to the exterior of an experimental diving vehicle known as the Trieste survived an unseen crushing depth of 3,150m. This was the beginning of the Sea-Dweller’s history and the drive to travel deeper than ever anticipated. The Deep Sea Special No. 3, which descended to an astounding 10,916m, came after this in 1960.

Rolex finally introduced the Sea-Dweller 1665 in 1967. It had 500 metres of water resistance, no cyclops, and a helium escape valve at the side of the case to prevent crystals from shattering during decompression after full saturation diving. This innovation was inspired by COMEX divers’ needs and would become the Sea-Dweller’s trademark.

In 1971, they formed a relationship with COMEX, a French diving business that specialised in engineering and deep diving operations, to further test this technology. Before its commercial introduction in 1971, Comex had access to 1665 Sea-Dwellers for testing, along with 5514 COMEX-only Submariners with helium escape valves.

The “Single-Red” model of the 1665 Sea-Dwellers prototype’s first batch would be replaced by the “Double Red” two-line red text version with a greater 610m water resistance. When the Submariner text and the decision to go from red to white writing were discarded in 1977, the new design was dubbed “Great-White”.

The 16660, which had a sapphire crystal that allowed it to enhance its depth rating to 1,220m, would finally replace the 1665 reference in 1978. Additionally, it had a quickset date 3035 movement, which was more recent. Ten years later, the 16600 took its place. During its 20-year production run, the 16600 sported three different types of lume variations on its black dial and once again acquired a more contemporary movement, the 3135 with a greater power reserve.

The 11666 Deepsea Sea-Dweller, with its larger 44mm housing and Ring-Lock-System that enables it to reach an astonishing depth of 3,900m, would temporarily replace the Sea-Dweller in 2008. It would be a brand-new watch that was not constrained by its original design and that had undergone numerous improvements to make it a far more capable, contemporary, and opulent product.

Changing to ceramic bezels with fully graduated gold/platinum markings, solid links, and a new, overly-engineered clasp with a Glidelock and a wetsuit extension were a few of them. This would be the pinnacle of the brand’s contemporary skills and would be a tremendous success during the current giant watch craze.

In 2014, Rolex made a comeback to the 40mm Sea-Dweller, which was well regarded as the “Sleeper Submariner” because to its similar though thicker specifications to a standard Submariner that was then in regular production.

It has a matte black dial and a fully graduated bezel to maintain its hard-core appearance. The current 126600 model, a new 43mm variant with a return to the single-red text of the vintage, took the place of this model.

The Sea-Dweller and Deepsea Sea-Dweller have established themselves as Rolex’s deep-sea innovation flex, showcasing the expanded possibilities of its initial dive watch designs, the Submariner and the oyster case. Dive watch fans who prefer hard-core characteristics or who simply prefer more innovation than the delicate and elegant Submariner have embraced the expanded offering.

ROLEX SUBMARINER VS SEA-DWELLER: WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

MODEL OPTIONS

The Submariner No Date, Submariner Date, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, and Deep Sea Challenge are the five subcategories that make up the current Rolex diver lineup. Since its beginnings till the present, the Submariner No Date has been regarded as a watch for purists. It upholds the history of a tool by only being available in black and exclusively in steel.

Over many years, Rolex experimented with many dial/bezel colours and case materials for the Submariner Date, creating a very important but tested collection. The watch comes in two steel colour options: black dial with a black bezel or black dial with a green bezel, the colour that was formerly reserved for the anniversary editions.

Both complete 18k yellow gold models and two-tone “steel and 18k yellow gold” models offer the standard options of a sunburst blue dial with a blue bezel and a black dial and bezel. The diving watch collection’s 18k white gold variation, which is possibly its most expensive model, now has a black dial and a blue bezel.

The Sea-Dweller is now available in 43mm and has a black dial and bezel with a red line of text on the dial that is reminiscent of old design. It is also available in two-tone, with a black bezel and dial.

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 44mm is only available in steel and comes in two variations: a black dial with a black bezel and a deep blue to black gradient dial with Kawasaki green text, both with a black bezel. These variations were created to honour James Cameron’s expedition to the Mariana Trench.

To reflect its hard-core modern-era capabilities, the Deepsea Challenge 50mm, Rolex’s newest halo model diver, is only offered with a black bezel and matte black dial. It also has a first for Rolex, a completely titanium case and bracelet.

BUILD QUALITY

Superior construction is synonymous with Rolex, and the idea of the sports watch has come a long way because of the company’s unrivalled philosophy of evolving rather than revolving. The “Rolex way” never compromises on trustworthy watchmaking and is constantly looking forward to employing the best production and machining methods available.

Its range offers the ideal fusion of luxury and usefulness in the present day, where watches have evolved into status symbols rather than simple tools. virtually unbreakable, superior, and more powerful than before.

The entire Rolex collection continues to be improved, including the diving watch line. Rolex is now the top manufacturer of sports watches in the world thanks to its use of solely proprietary metals, solid link tapering bands, industry-leading clasps, gold indexes and hands, ceramic bezels with gold or platinum-filled markings, modernised calibres, and the tightest tolerances in manufacturing.

The Sea-Dweller and Submariner ranges, which are essentially one another’s harder variants, have the same DNA. Therefore, when selecting either model, there is no need to sacrifice build quality.

MOVEMENTS

The whole range of calibres offered by Rolex is continuously updated. The 3230 and 3235 calibres, which are identical save for a date complication, are currently used in its dive watch versions. Even with a Parachrom hairspring and the Superlative Chronometer specification, you still receive about 2 seconds of precision per day.

What’s new is Rolex’s exclusive Chronergy escapement, which has a 70-hour power reserve, significantly greater than the 48 hours offered by prior generation calibres. This allows for more accurate and consistent timekeeping between servicing intervals.

PRICE & AVAILABILITY

The 124060LN Submariner “No-date,” the entry-level professional dive watch from Rolex, has a starting retail price of $9,100 and a market value of $12,100. The 126610LN Submariner “Date” (retail $10,250, market 13,750) carries the same 30% premium.

The most popular model, the 126610LV Submariner “Starbucks”, has a retail price of $10,800 and a market price of $16,700, making it the model with the largest premium of 55% above its retail price.

With the market favouring steel versions, the inclusion of gold results in lower price premiums for the combined Submariners. The less-black 126613LN retails for $15,600 and has a market value of $16,350, while the 126613LB retails for $15,600 and has a market value of $17,600.

Even with the more extravagant/expensive models in the portfolio, the Sea-Dweller models continue to be quite popular among collectors even if they sell for less on the market than the Submariners. While the less popular combo model, the 126603, has a retail price of $18,000 and a discounted market price of $16,600, the Sea-Dweller 126600, retailing at $13,250, currently commands a virtually comparable market price.

While its unique dial variant, the 136660-0003 D-Blue, retails for $14,500 and has a market value of $17,400, the Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0004 black dial costs $14,200 and has a market price of $15,300. The recently introduced Deepsea Challenge commands a premium market price of $32,000 despite its high retail price of $26,000 and highly specialised target market of large watch collectors.

For nearly every model in Rolex’s sport model line, there are currently lengthy waitlists. The size of the queue and your chances of purchasing a desired model at retail will have an impact on its market worth, which also has an impact on how well-liked it is among consumers. In order to avoid paying market premiums, buying ties with authorised dealers are crucial.

VALUE RETENTION & INVESTMENT

We’ve reached the point where it’s almost a given that every watch mentioned in this episode will be able to hold onto its value over the course of time. Even when the market has recovered from a recession, as it has right now, Rolex’s premium value retention is robust and consistently high. This is a result of the enormous ratio discrepancy between supply and demand. Consumers now have access to a larger range of information, and over the next ten years, they won’t be satisfied by brands like Rolex.

When comparing the Submariner to the Sea-Dweller in terms of investment potential, the Submariner is a clear victor thanks to its popularity, hype, and versatility. However, the Sea-Dwellers’ novelty and the freedom for experimentation and amusement that Rolex grants them make the watches a fantastic long-term investment.

NOTABLE SUBMARINER & SEA-DWELLER MODELS

With a wide variety of exclusive metals, features, intricacies, and capabilities, Rolex has built a powerful dive watch line that can go over ten times deeper than the competition. Let’s explore a few of them.

ROLEX SUBMARINER NO DATE 124060LN

The 124060 Submariner, known as the “No-date”, is the purest available iteration of the range, available only in 904L Steel, for the first time 41mm in diameter, returning to the more elegant tapered lugs compared to the maxi case of its predecessor, attached to an industry-leading solid link Oyster bracelet with a lug width of 21mm tapering to 19mm at the dual safety clasp that has Glidelock with 20mm of adjustment.

The 124060 is praised for its symmetrical, simple dial layout because it doesn’t have a date window at 3 o’clock; it only comes with a gloss black dial and a black Cerachrom bezel. Its 18k white gold dial’s indexes and hands are fully Chromalight; the markers on the bezel are filled with platinum and include a lume dot at the 12 o’clock position.

The no-date 3230 movement, which is unique to this type and was introduced in 2020, gives it a 70-hour power reserve and increases efficiency. Every other Submariner is built on this model, making it crucial to both Rolex and anyone’s collection. Price at retail: $9,100.

ROLEX SUBMARINER DATE 126610LN

With the additional flexibility of a date window, the Submariner 126610LN Date offers the same formula as the No-date. The 41mm case with the more edgy tapered lugs, constructed of Rolex’s exclusive 904L steel, is still there. It is connected to a solid link Oyster bracelet with a 21mm wide beginning and a 19mm wide dual safety clasp with Glidelock.

The tool watch appearance is also kept up with full brushing and little feature polishing on the edges of the bezel, crown, and case and bracelet sides.

A crucial component of almost all Date Rolexes, the date window at 3 o’clock on the black dial of this LN model is enlarged by the Cyclops on the sapphire crystal. It is combined with one of the most recognisable sport watch layouts to date—a black Cerachrom bezel with platinum markers.

By 2020, all Submariners had been updated, and the 3235 came with a movement upgrade for all date models. The thickness is still 12.5mm, the same as the no date, and thanks to its exquisite application of the specs, it is a more practical desk diving choice than the no date, which is also the entry point to additional Date Submariner varieties. Price at retail: $10,250.

ROLEX SUBMARINER “STARBUCKS” 126610LV

The collection’s fan favourite is the Rolex Submariner 126610LV. The initials “LV” were first used on a Submariner reference with the “50th Anniversary Submariner Kermit.” “LV” stands for “Lunette Verte,” which translates to “green bezel” in French. Since then, practically every decade has seen an improvement to the custom of Rolex’s and its supporters’ preferred colour, “green”.

The 126610LV, often known as the “Starbucks,” is the current iteration of the original Kermit and substitutes a gloss black dial for the sunburst gold-green dial of the “Hulk” to get a more subdued appearance akin to the original “Kermit.”

A full Chromalite lume dial, a Cerachrom bezel, a 3235 movement, and case specifications of 41mm in 904L steel with the new tapered lugs, attached to a 21mm-19mm tapering dive-ready bracelet, would make it identical to its “LN” brother if not for its green bezel, which has been carried forward from its predecessor.

The “LV” reference, which replaces its extremely popular sunburst Maxi-case predecessor, the “Hulk,” is less showy and more beautiful thanks to the decision to go back to black for the dial and a return to classic proportions. Price at retail: $10,800.

ROLEX SUBMARINER “BLUESY” 126613LB

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB “Bluesy” is another model in the diving watch range that makes use of the highly desired colour blue. The dial is completely sunburst in vivid blue, and the Cerachrom bezel is a complementary shade of blue.

The model’s key selling point, the mix of 904L Steel and Yellow-Rolesor (Rolex’s own unique metals), serves as the “excuse” for the model’s daring colour. With the exception of the hands, indexes, inlay on the clasp, bezel markings, and “solid yellow gold” bezel, this model is primarily made of steel.

It is identical to the 41mm by 12.5mm Date Submariner in terms of technical and size specs. As a result, it creates a more upscale form of the common Steel Submariner, with the dazzle of gold but without the drawbacks of extra weight and fragility of its full gold variation, which has a price tag almost three times as high as this model.

Since its introduction in 1984, the “Bluesy” has been a staple in the lineup and is credited with starting the 80s trend for combination-gold watches. With the resurgence of interest in gold varieties, we are going back to those days. Price at retail: $15,600.

ROLEX SEA-DWELLER 126600

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 commemorates the Sea-Dweller’s 50th birthday and brings back the ‘Single-red line Sea-Dweller text’ on the dial, a throwback to the 1957 prototypes.

The use of a 43mm case, with a black dial and a wider fully graduated Cerachrom bezel, as opposed to the Submariner matching diameter of its predecessors, which was beloved by its ardent admirers as “Sleeper Submariners,” is controversial about this model.

It is the first Sea-Dweller with a Cyclops for its date window; this is just Rolex being “Rolex,” always innovating, and having discovered a new way for the Cyclops to withstand its 1,220m dive watch capabilities.

This model, which is the starting point in the collection for saturation divers, comes fitted with a helium escape valve. It is a very readable and practical tool watch, especially underwater, due to the use of a bigger 43mm 904L Steel case. Additionally, it makes the watch’s 15mm thickness more evenly distributed without making it appear bulky.

A 22mm broad Oyster bracelet upgrade that narrows to 19mm at the Glidelock clasp improves wearing comfort. Rolex also sells the Sea-Dweller 43 in a combination edition with a fully black dial and matching bezel due to the increased popularity of gold watches. Price at retail: $13,250.

ROLEX DEEPSEA 136660

When Rolex initially debuted the “Deepsea” label in 2008, larger watch sizes were all the rage. This allowed the company to include the 44mm Deepsea 116660, a monstrous timepiece, in its array of dive watches.

The Deepsea was also a test of the brand’s willingness and ability to innovate on its initial dive watch concept by introducing a model with an astounding depth rating of 3,900m and a bigger case thanks to its Ring-Lock-System.

The Deepsea’s elegant and highly technical feature-packed design, which enables it to be harmonious in proportions, design, and luxury, with its far less capable and more versatile siblings, is what is most impressive about it. This allows it to still be a wearable watch for an average sized wrist despite its 44mm diameter and 17.7mm thickness.

The Deepsea is currently using the 136660 reference in its third version. The 126660 model was upgraded in 2018 with the 3235 movement and had a broader bracelet, thinner lugs, and shorter lug-to-lug measurements for improved proportions and a better fit on the wrist.

A “substantial 8% increase” in the size of the date display, slight changes to the height of the bezel, and the absence of a flip lock extension were all made to the 136660 in 2022. This model is available with a unique D-Blue dial to honour James Cameron’s voyage to the Mariana trench. It has a black dial and fully graduated black Cerachrom bezel as standard. Price at Retail: $14,200.

ROLEX DEEPSEA CHALLENGE 126067

The Deepsea Challenge, a new production model from Rolex with an incredible 11,000m of water resistance and designed to conquer the deepest point known to man, was the result of the brand’s constant effort to push the boundaries in the diving watch market.

The new Deepsea Challenge, which would use the Ring-Lock-System and have a 50mm diameter case and 23mm of thickness (with 9mm crystal to withstand the elements), would essentially be a (no-date) inflated version of the current Deepsea to pull off the feat. This is the first model to be made available in “lighter” full titanium (RLX-Titanium), including complete brushing and a return to the chamfered lugs of the past, in order to conceal its heft and match its capabilities.

The Deepsea Challenge guarantees that Rolex has an offering to match its contemporary capabilities, even though its vast proportions and specialist capabilities will appeal to a limited target population. The best diving watchmaker in history is trying to stretch the boundaries of tradition. For those who prefer luxury above novelty, there is this feature-rich diver. ($26,00 retail price).

CONCLUSION

The Sea-Dweller models are only an expansion of a successful concept that is the legendary Submariner; the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller were never intended to be compared. For all dive watches to follow, the Submariner has always set the bar high in terms of form, functionality, and refinement.

Because of its widespread appeal, the Submariner may seem uninteresting to an experienced collector. Because of this, the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models have unique identities and histories that appeal to specific niches.

The Submariner is a well-liked, classy option for the desk diver. For the saturation diver or for those who simply enjoy the variety, novelty, and pleasure brought into the lineup, the Sea-Dweller series offers more serious specs.